SS27

For Spring/Summer 2027

KSENIASCHNAIDER changes perspective.

Anton Schnaider steps into the role of Creative Director for this first time since co-founding the brand together with Ksenia Schnaider in Kyiv in 2011. The creative conversation of Ksenia and Anton shifts this season as Anton takes the lead, going beyond developing, challenging, and extending Ksenia’s ideas, and bringing his own memories, obsessions, and visual references to the KSENIASCHNAIDER universe.

Anton’s graphic design background become part of the language of the clothes. Football shirts, racing uniforms, club merchandise, sportswear, and travel clothing collide with references to cars, movement, teams, and fan culture. Logos, numbers, surnames, flags, sponsor marks, and crests abound – familiar visual codes that signal loyalty, origin, pride, memory, and collective identity.

But UTC+1 is as much about belonging as it is about reluctance to belong.

“I like the idea of belonging, but I don’t necessarily want to have to belong to something all of the time. Everything and every belonging seems to come with a position – a flag, a team, a logo. So I thought started inventing my own” says Anton Schnaider.

Instead of attaching to existing clubs, companies, or countries – UTC+1 constructs a fictional statement of affiliation.

Pseudo-logos look convincing but lead nowhere, familiar signs behave like statements then slip away before becoming literal. “Erm” is no longer a hesitation or uncertainty, it becomes a logo. The KSENIASCHNAIDER name is fragmented into rebuses and numbers, the collection names itself locates the designer through a time zone rather than a country – temporary coordinates, not permanent markers.

Direct symbols are replaced by their traces, and ghost-marks suggest logos that have been removed. Faded areas preserve the memory of absent emblems, numbers appear to identify something but ultimately confuse. Invested surnames resemble the language of sports jerseys but carry meanings of their own. “Daughterson” could belong anywhere, “Frijondz” draws on old Germanic roots associated with friendship, love, and kinship - the traditional surnames across the back of garments stop being determinate and become quiet messages and connection. 

Alongside this fictional graphic system comes a practical embodiment of the idea: walkwear.

If workwear was designed around labour, and sportswear around performance, walkwear responds to the flaneur, the traveller, the urban nomad – people carrying their lives with them and moving continuously between places.

Function is real, but becomes slightly displaced too. Multi-pocket garments reduce the need for a bag, sunscreen bodysuits borrow protection from performance clothing and translate it into everyday urban life. Pseudo-belts preserve the familiar image of a belt without necessarily performing its original function. Even practical details become graphic signs, and in turn graphic signs acquire practical purposes.

“I’m interesting in things that look like they have a very clear function or meaning, but then you realise they don’t quite behave the way you’d expect” says Anton. “Everything looks like it might mean something specific, but the meaning keeps moving”.

For all its fictional identities and shifting affiliations, the collection has a very tangible place of origin. Every piece in UTC+1 was made in Kyiv, Ukraine, at KSENIASCHNAIDER’s own production facility.

Operating for more than a decade, the brands Kyiv atelier is integral to its design practice with a long-standing focus on upcycling, zero-waste techniques, experimental denim construction, and finding new uses for existing materials. Production is not treated simply as the final stage of design: experimentation with construction, waste, fabric, and existing garments has shaped the visual language of KSENIASCHNAIDER since the beginning.

The result in UTC+1 sits somewhere between function and fiction, sport and street, graphic design and clothing, identity and escape. It borrows the visual language of belonging without allowing itself to be fully captured by it. 

Everything looks like it belongs somewhere. Exactly where remains open.

KSENIASCHNAIDER x LEE COOPER

This season six looks form a new chapter in the ongoing KSENIASCHNAIDER x Lee Cooper collaboration.

While the previous chapters explored utility through denim, the season takes that functional language somewhere deliberately softer. Fabrics traditionally associated with softness, domesticity, and summer dressing are applied to highly functional garments. Romantic florals meet cargo pockets, checks and colourful patchworks disrupt utilitarian construction. 

Each look of the collaboration is paired with a specially designed flower bag, turning flowers into part of the silhouette and further romanticising the otherwise utilitarian world of the collaboration. 

Tough and delicate, practical and playful, walkwear for the summer.